Roumier's 2012 Bonnes-Mares blossoms in all directions with stunning purity, depth and transparency. A pure, magnificent expression of this great site, the 2012 is simply magnetic in its spherical, multi-dimensional personality. The flavors are dark, spiced and intensely mineral, but that doesn't do full justice to what is in the glass. An intensely saline, bracing finish rounds things out in total style. I expect the 2012 to drink well for many, many years. Recent bottles of the 1988 and 1990 are poignant reminders of just how far these wines have come over the last 25 years. In 2012, yields were so small, that all of the fruit from both the terres blanches and terres rouges sections of the vineyard were vinified together.

(there's only one cuvee in 2012, as Roumier had just enough fruit from both sides of the appellation to fill a single large cuve; he normally vinifies his "red soil" and "white soil" vines separately and then combines them): Very dark red-ruby color. Wild small red fruits, brown spices and musky earth on the nose; smells bigger than the Ruchottes! Concentrated, chewy and sweet on the palate, with a compelling thickness of texture to the captivating flavors of strawberry, raspberry, blackberry and blood orange. Offers a rare combination of tactile, 3-D texture and an impression of weightlessness. Extremely long on the aftertaste, with noble tannins buried under the wine's great fruit.

After the perplexing 2011, the 2012 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru restores order – an exemplary wine. The bouquet is still backward, attesting that this Grand Cru deserves a decade in bottle, yet the oak is beautifully assimilated and the terroir really comes through. The palate is knitted together by filigree tannin that almost disguise the intensity of this wines, but the sustained finish leaves you in no doubt that you are in the presence of one of Christophe Roumier's finest recent vintages. Just be patient. Tasted at dinner in Beaune.

25% new oak. ‘Terres rouges’ is very close to the northern limit, with Morey. ‘Terres blanches’ is above the path that dissects the Bonnes Mares. Roumier has three parcels from the far north to the far south. More lifted than the Terres Rouges. Very slight reduction but lots of animal and black-fruit notes. Quite rich and plush. Great texture. Lots of chew on the end – very ambitious. A bit hard on the end. (JR)