Bright medium red. Knockout high-pitched aromas of red berries, peony and orange peel. Boasts compelling subtle density and sharp definition to its taut flavors of blackberry, violet, licorice, spices and minerals. In its juicy sappiness, this is like chewing on a ripe cherry. A classic Bonnes-Mares, offering superb volume without any undue weight. And an outstanding example of what phenolically ripe fruit could make in this cool vintage.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from Christophe Roumier has a ripe redcurrant, kirsch and vanilla-tinged bouquet, high-toned but not volatile, generous if missing some mineralité. The palate is defined by its very smooth texture: seamless and so lithe in the mouth. There is impressive purity here and while you could describe this as "showy" (not an adjective that I often apply to Christophe's wines), that is meant in a positive way. There is the substance to suggest this will age with style -- a sophisticated and thoroughly enjoyable Bonnes-Mares to savor. Tasted September 2016.

30% new oak. ‘Terres Rouges’ is very close to the northern limit, with Morey. Taille identical. ‘Terres Blanches’ is above the path that dissects the Bonnes Mares. Roumier has three parcels from the far north to the far south. The Terres Blanches is more lifted than the Terres Rouges. Light gamey nose. It’s all on the palate. Juicy but very unformed, almost raw, Extremely youthful. Lots of tannin but not that much in between the framework for the moment. (JR)