The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is one of the wines of the vintage this year, unfurling in the glass with a profound bouquet of red and black cherries, espresso roast, dark chocolate, peony and subtle hints of forest floor. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and layered, with striking concentration and dimension, rich but fine-grained structuring tannins and a bright line of animating acidity, concluding with a finish that's simultaneously chalky and distinctly floral. This will be one of the most long-lived 2017 red Burgundies.

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was showing quite a lot of reduction on the nose when I visited (Christophe Roumier was taken aback, as it had been racked three weeks earlier). Fortunately, the palate shows great potential; it’s as beautifully balanced as ever, with a fine bead of acidity. This is more understated and less outgoing than other vintages encountered from barrel, and not quite as persistent on the finish, but with a fine dash of black pepper on the aftertaste. There is something very assured about this Bonnes-Mares, though this year, it is Les Amoureuses that sends tingles down the spine.

'Terres rouges' is very close to the northern limit, with Morey. Pruning identical. ‘Terres blanches’ (ie lots of active limestone) is above the path that dissects Bonnes Mares. Roumier has three parcels from far north to far south. In 2016 he was able to include for the first time the fruit from an extra hectare (2.5 acres) of land owned by Ficofi (planted in 1995) on marly soil and this has increased the ‘saltiness’ of this wine because two-thirds of their vines are on marl with lots of active lime, the other third on rock with clay and pebbles. Now they have six different parcels. Around 60% whole bunch. Barrel sample, three cuvées blended. A little smoky and rich in dark fruit. A touch of savoury char and sweet spice but I sense it is fruit spice not oak. Deep, cool and elegant, firm yet paper-fine texture, compact and so well defined and harmonious already. Salty finish. Chalky finish that speaks of the limestone too. Complex, elegant beauty. (JH)