The 2007 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses continues to drink beautifully, soaring from the glass with a magical bouquet of red and black cherries, wild roses, peony, coniferous forest floor and blood orange, framed by emergent savory nuances of espresso roast and subtle new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, its melting tannins concealed behind a deep core of crystalline fruit, underpinned by succulent acids that lend lift to the long, fragrant finish. This Amoureuses is a touch more reserved than it was a few years ago, so I would recommend forgetting it in the cellar until 2020 or beyond.

Tasted at the Domaine. Racked the previous day, this is perhaps Christophe Roumier’s best 2007? Even though the nose is closed, reluctantly offering dark cherry fruits, crushed minerals, limestone and violets; the palate is already showing filigree tannins, ethereal balance; tight but utterly refined with incredible purity on the animally finish. Just goes on and on. Gorgeous! Drink 2012-2025+ Tasted January 2009.

Good bright red-ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry and orange peel. The palate offers a compelling combination of silky sweetness, spine and grip, with terrific verve to the flavors of raspberry and dusty minerality. Wonderfully juicy and delineated wine that seems much more Amoureuses than 2007. Finishes very long, vibrant and serene.

Purple plum and red raspberry accented with citrus oils, cumin, and black pepper all inform the nose and a deeply rich palate of Roumier's 2007 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses. Savory meatiness emerges as this opens to the air, and alkaline, saline, and chalky mineral suggestions add intrigue to its memorably persistent finish. Palpably dense yet fine-grained - even incipiently silken - this is clearly one of those 2007s worth following for a decade or more, though I think the 2008 will retain the edge in elegance and intriguing complexity as well as be far longer-lived. Christophe Roumier says his 2008 fruit demanded rigorous sorting to remove under-ripe bunches (whereas in 2007 this was necessary to remove rot), but he liked what was left enough to indulge in a significant proportion (most frequently 50%) of stems and whole clusters for the fermentations. "With such tiny, perfect berries, it was almost a shame to de-stem any of them," he remarks. Late to go through malo, like so many others of that year, these 2008s certainly preserve the vintage's primary virtues of vivacity and interactive complexity. Not more than 50% new wood was employed, to guard against loss of the vintage's vividly bright fruit in a vintage Roumier felt was unusually sensitive in that regard. Some of the 2008s remind him of 1980 or, more precisely, of what the 1980s could have become given today's standards of viticulture and selection. Roumier has a higher opinion of 2007 and their age-worthiness than do I, considering them superior to 2006 or 2008 - and given the way the two that I tasted from bottle showed, that opinion is not inexplicable. (I tasted the other Roumier 2007s too early in their evolution to render proper verdicts, although they were certainly effusively generous if not yet complex even pre-malo.) Roumier employed comparable percentages of stems and whole clusters, and indulged in more frequent pigeage than in 2008, comparing his resulting 2007s with 1985s. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400