Good full deep red. Great lift and perfume to the aromas of blueberry, minerals, lilac and white pepper. Silky and utterly seamless, but with terrific sappiness and finesse to the blackberry, floral, mineral and earth flavors. Sweeter today than the Ruchottes-Chambertin; delivers an uncanny combination of gracefulness and power. The extremely long, rising finish leaves the taste buds quivering with piquant soil-driven minerality and high-pitched flowers. A classic 2010 beauty.

The 2010 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses was racked just one week prior to my visit and therefore was not showing the full breadth of its personality. Sweet, intensely perfumed notes waft gradually from the glass, but today I can’t say my impression is fully formed. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035. The only real problem with Christophe Roumier’s 2010s is the production, which was severely compromised by the December 2009 frost and the poor weather of 2010, especially during the flowering. On a more positive note, the wines are marked by their total transparency. Some of the entry-level wines are a bit on the light side, but the best 1er Crus and the Grand Crus are magical. Roumier started picking on September 28. Some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. I will report on the 2009s in our April issue. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600