The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru had already been blended when I visited the domaine in November. It has a glorious bouquet that is quintessential Amoureuses: mainly red fruit tinged with blueberry, and then incense and crushed violets. Not as powerful as some vintages, but it oozes refinement. The palate shows exquisite balance, filigreed tannin and a texture so silky it belongs in a lingerie department. There is just the right amount of salinity toward the finish, which feels like a ballerina en pointe . A masterclass in how to articulate Les Amoureuses, courtesy of Christophe Roumier. Magnificent.

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses has finished its malolactic fermentation earlier than the other wines in the cellar, so it was naturally the most coherent at this early stage; but even allowing for that advantage, it appears to be—as is so often the case—one of the most exciting wines in the cellar. Aromas of sweet cherries, raspberries, violets and rose petals introduce a supple, medium to full-bodied wine that's extraordinary satiny and seductive, with a melting, layered mid-palate and a beautifully pure finish.