The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny Village has a delightful bouquet with redcurrant, cranberry, mint and light dried rose petal aromas, so elegant that you can almost miss the aromatic intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. There is a fine bead of acidity here, lithe in texture, building in volume towards quite a weighty and persistent finish. This just exudes drinkability even at this early stage so be warned - this will be impossible to resist. Tasted at the Domaine Direct Tasting in London.

(two-thirds of a normal crop; includes the Chambolle-Musigny Les Combottes; vinified with one-third whole clusters): Bright dark red. Pungent, almost exotic aromas of raspberry and red cherry lifted by flowers. At once dense and juicy, showing darker flavors of blackberry and licorice. This wine has the concentration and body of a premier cru, notes Roumier, "but not the shine." Will rely more on its firm tannic spine than on its acidity for longevity.

Rather a treat to taste this even if its price has moved into the stratosphere. Bright cherry red. Lovely balance. Just a beauty. Everything in its seductive place. Precise but with masses of terroir-driven fruit. And already a pleasure to drink. Medium charge of well-managed tannins should see it through but I’d grab this if I saw it on a restaurant wine list. So clever! (JR)