The cooler vintage really suited Roumier's 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Village, delivering a charming, perfumed wine redolent of peonies, rose petals, raspberries and blood orange. Medium to full-bodied, supple and suave, with an enveloping core of fragrant fruit, lively acids and melting tannins, it's already hard to resist. Purists are likely to prefer it to its 2020 counterpart.

The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Village contains around 35% whole bunches. The stems feel a bit too dominating on the nose and occlude the terroir expression. The palate has built around a silver thread of acidity and the stems feel more integrated. Roumier suggested during our tasting that, in hindsight, he might have used more stalks, but I think he made the right decision as I did detect some greenness on the finish. I feel this will be an early-drinking Chambolle Village that just seems to have been tripped up by the growing season.

Cask sample. Mid-cherry; lovely evocative Pinot nose of red cherries, fresh redcurrants and a touch of spice. Very expressive, very open. (MH)