Roumier's 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Combottes Les Combottes is pure silk on the palate. Rose petals, sweet red berries and cinnamon all flesh out in a supple, drop-dead gorgeous Chambolle. Here the flavors are all woven together in a fabric of exceptional elegance and pure polish. What a gorgeous, aromatically lifted Burgundy this is.

The 2012 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Combottes has a fragrant, slightly more “correct” bouquet than the Clos de la Bussieres, unfurling in the glass to reveal vibrant red berry fruit and a touch of orange zest. The palate is medium-bodied, bold in the mouth, quite assertive with good weight, muscular towards the finish. This has great breeding. Christophe Roumier was multitasking when I arrived at his domaine in Chambolle-Musigny: his mobile constantly trilling and tasting parties arriving in haphazard fashion, running here and running there. And as we know, men are not cut out for multitasking. No wonder he complained about his headache, though hopefully the aspirin, washed down with a glug of Musigny, relieved his mal de tete. But generally Christophe Roumier was in top form – just like his wines. He commenced the harvest on 22 September after the usual travails of the growing season that reduced his crops. He rued the fact that he is undergoing an expansion of his cellars, but after 2012 and a meagre 2013, has little to put in them. He suggested a comparison between 2010 and 2012, though the latter is less tannic and more “weightless” – a great word to describe many of this vintage’s wines. This year there is all but one and a half barrels of his elusive Musigny. It is an utterly transcendental wine, perhaps equal to the 2005 when I encountered that out of barrel, but if that proves just a wee bit difficult to find, then the Clos de la Bussieres is a quite brilliant Morey Saint Denis that will offer immense pleasure over the next 20 years. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

Dark red. Aromas of dark raspberry, black cherry, menthol and crushed stone. Thick, dense and deep for this cuvée , with dark berry and soil flavors offering a suggestion of sweetness. I find this more earth- than mineral-driven, and at the same time more luscious than the 2013 version; I might have picked it blind as coming from Morey-Saint-Denis. Finishes ripely tannic, subtle and long.