The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Combottes 1er Cru has a more austere bouquet than Roumier’s other 2018s, reserved and a touch earthier. Correct and maybe a little aloof at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, masculine in style, broody and structured, which is surprising given that it comes from a warm microclimate. This will need some time.

Good, quick ripening here. Old river bed that came from the combe. Like a little dell shape that keeps the sun. Stony soils so the day and night temperature swings are not as big as elsewhere. 25% new oak, 50% whole bunch. Barrel sample. The sweeter fruit of Chambolle (compared with Morey), lifted red cherry – generous and open but intense too. Light herbal lift from the whole bunch. Gorgeous aroma follows through on the palate but tied up in the pretty massive compact tannins. Deeply structured by them but fresh too. A big but elegant wine. Long, chewy, almost chalky finish. The tannins make me think of the short-pile velvet used to buff shoes. (JH)