2006 Domaine Georges Roumier, Musigny Grand Cru

As in 2005, there are one and a half barriques' (but a whole lot of Euros!) worth of Roumier 2006 Musigny. Liqueur-like kirsch and framboise, white truffle, peony, iris, and rich, savory meat stock fill the nose and carry onto an almost velvety palate that for all of its unctuousness displays dynamic interaction of flavors and uncanny lift. White pepper pungency and saline, meaty savor add to the invigoration and saliva-inducing allure of a long finish. While this cannot boast the concentration and structure of the 2005, its virtues are otherwise similarly prodigious. And one might well ask how much structure is needed to carry a wine like this - already soaring - over the next decade and beyond? Rigorous triage - along with Christophe Roumier's seemingly intuitive sense for the limits and potential of the vintage - have resulted in a set of 2006s here that are youthfully generous, but in the best instances will be well worth cellaring. The fermentative regimen and elevage (including no racking until assemblage, to maximize contact with lees convey both fat and structure; yet early bottling to preserve fruit) were tailored to the vintage, whereas the regimen of new wood was little changed from other recent years, meaning around one-third for the premier crus. Stems were selectively included, up to something over one-third in the grand crus. I tasted these wines from barrel at 14 months and again from bottle at 18, and they had in most instances both gained textural allure as well as structure and refined their flavors, clearly demonstrating the success of Roumier's strategy. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

(just one and a half barrels made) Medium red. Slightly reduced yet quite floral aromas of sappy cherry, violet and tar, all lifted by a note of blood orange. Silky and suave, with intense flavors of sweet red fruits and flowers leading to an aromatic, long finish featuring a fine dusting of tannins. Like a somewhat denser version of the very good 2000 example.