This sample was actually overdue racking, hence the nose is rather subdued and disjointed. But the palate has a wonderful, sensuous nature with good delineation. Black cherries, cassis and a touch of graphite. Very focused and then clams in on itself towards the Morello-tinged finish. Will need time but great potential. Drinking 2010-2015. Tasted January 2007.

Tasting note: A very fresh and unusually bright but more deeply pitched red fruit nose inflected with iron suffused earth, hints of underbrush and subtle sauvage notes leads to rich, full and admirably intense flavors that are at once powerful yet supple, all wrapped in a punchy and more complex and minerally finish than what I usually find here. Good stuff with excellent acid/fruit/tannin balance and recommended.

Like the rest of the wines here at the time I tasted, Roumier’s 2005 Morey St. Denis Clos de la Bussiere had been sulfured and racked in autumn after a very late malo and was in barrel awaiting imminent assemblage in tank for (unfiltered) bottling. It was slightly reduced but responded well to a good shaking, displaying subtle black fruits, high-toned almond and maraschino, roasted meatiness, resin, and forest floor notes on the nose. It fills the mouth with roasted meat richness, bitter-sweet black fruits, high-toned distilled fruit esters, and finishes with solidity, grip, and savory saltiness. One senses that Christophe Roumier considers 2005 a high point of his career, and my visit with him was among the high points of my recent trip. He describes this as “a classic vintage lending itself to very calm, classic vinification,” which given the opportunities afforded by perfectly healthy, firm, dry, ripe fruit involved triage almost solely to remove ladybugs, and included around 25% whole clusters in the fermenters at the Premier Cru level and 50% at that of Grand Cru. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400.