The 2010 Morey St. Denis Clos de la Bussiere is an explosive wine. Dark red cherries, freshly cut flowers, graphite and mint all take shape in the glass. The Clos de la Bussiere stands out for its energy, focus and length. Persistent saline notes add freshness. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035. The only real problem with Christophe Roumier’s 2010s is the production, which was severely compromised by the December 2009 frost and the poor weather of 2010, especially during the flowering. On a more positive note, the wines are marked by their total transparency. Some of the entry-level wines are a bit on the light side, but the best 1er Crus and the Grand Crus are magical. Roumier started picking on September 28. Some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. I will report on the 2009s in our April issue. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

Just one cask in this case. Firm crimson. Rather light nose. Lots of fruit upfront and then a little rigid. Very firm on the finish needs a bit of time. Strict backbone. (JR)