The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is a real success, and decidedly reminiscent of the domaine's excellent 2007. Offering up aromas of sweet red berries, warm spices, peony and subtle soil tones, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a fine core of fruit that cloaks its rich but fine-grained tannic chassis. While it's an elegant rendition of the Clos de la Bussière, this always needs bottle age.

Monopole of less than 2.59 ha (6.4 acres). Monopole since the 12th century. Opposite the entrance to Dujac. Bought in the 1950s by Christophe’s grandad. Not in good nick so he started to renew it in 1955 and last phase of renewal was 1994. South of Morey. Lots of clay. 25% new barrels, 45% whole bunch. Barrel sample. Pure and slightly peppery dark fruit. So coaly on the palate, dark layers of sober fruit, utter beauty without any show. Perfect restraint. More compact than the Chambolle. So moreish and without flirtatiousness. Serious and seriously beautiful. Gorgeous. (JH)