Healthy full red. Musky, reticent nose offers lovely rose petal lift and sexy soil tones, with fruit in the background today. Calmer and less expressive than the wilder Charmes but boasts excellent floral energy and refinement--and lovely tension--in the mouth. Quite backward and tight today but already shows terrific class, punch and length. Finishes with firm tannins, a saline impression of extract and noteworthy mineral drive. "The 2013s say 'don't drink me now,'" said Roumier at this point in our tasting.

The 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru has slightly more fruit intensity on the nose compared to the Charmes-Chambertin ’13 – a notch more ambition and presence. There is superb intensity on the nose with sorbet-like fruit at its core. The palate is succinctly balanced with (again) more substance than the Charmes-Chambertin ’13. It is harmonious and focused and then just eases off the accelerator toward the finish.

Next to Clos des Ruchottes (Rousseau). Pebbly. Quite cool and late ripening. Discreet nose. But juicy and rather magnificent and complex on the palate. Refined. Restrained. (JR)