The 1996 Chambertin Grand Cru, a vintage that I have drunk three or four times previously, shows modest bricking on the rim. It has a gorgeous bouquet with decayed red fruit, roasted chestnut, undergrowth and a touch of wild mint. There is something effortless about the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that have softened in recent years. Open and expressive with a perfect bead of acidity, there is a judicious touch of spice and scintillate of greenness interlaced on the finish. After 26-years, this 1996 is reaching its peak, but the acidic spine suggests it will stay there for many years. Tasted at the Rousseau Chambertin vertical at La Vienne.

A Burgundy of tension and bracing energy, the 1996 Rousseau Chambertin is simply magnificent on this night. Time in the glass brings out the wine's stunning inner sweetness and perfume in what is an utterly glorious expression of Pinot Noir and Chambertin. I imagine the 1996 will still be compelling in 30 years' time. Today is transcendental and deeply beautiful.

From one of the greatest names in Burgundy, the 1996 Chambertin is a dark red with a hint of amber at the rim. Intense violet notes complicate strawberry, blueberry, smoke and Oriental spices on the deep, complex and very refined nose. The wine is fine-grained and elegant in the mouth, with smoky and floral elements lifting the red and dark berry flavors. Noteworthy acidity augments the palate sensation of still-firm tannins on the long finish, suggesting many years of life ahead. The Chambertin is a knockout wine very much in the mold of this slowly developing, high-acid vintage.

This wine reveals a dark ruby color and mouth-watering aromas of smoked pork, bacon, juicy blackberries, road tar, raw meat, and a hint of eucalyptus. This block-buster is big, broad, dense, concentrated and complete. It is oily textured, full-bodied, and offers sublime layers of candied black raspberries, blueberries, violets, lilies, fresh herbs, Asian spices, leather, stones, smoke, and toast. This formidably structured and profound wine demands patience. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2018. Bravo! As far as the 1996 vintage is concerned, Rousseau's comments were bluntly candid - "the North wind is concentration. It saves a harvest, prevents rot, concentrates color and sugar, concentrates everything we want. 1996 is better than 1990, it may be too early to say, but there, I said it." With that, Rousseau picked up one of the tastevins hanging on the wall (these are the small, wide, shallow, and traditional silver utensils used for tasting. As far as I know he is the only Burgundian who continues to use them on a regular basis), and the tasting began. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.

Good full red. Sappy, highly complex aromas of earth, smoke and minerals, with a deep core of spice. Fat, seamless and sweet, with fresh red fruit flavors and perfectly integrated acidity. But still just showing the tip of the iceberg. Fruit a bit dominated by the oak today. Finishes with lovely subtle persistence and firm tannins. This shut down in the glass, while the Clos de Beze opened like a peacock's tail.