Rousseau's 1997 Chambertin is powerful. This Chambertin's dark berry scents lead to a tar, cinnamon, briar, blackberry, black raspberry, and assorted dried fruit flavored personality. It is thick, chewy, medium-to-full-bodied, and will certainly be the longest-lived 1997 from this property. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2010+. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.

Similar full medium red. Tangy aromas of raspberry, cherry, roasted coffee, spice and underbrush. Fuller and more voluminous, but not as extroverted today as the above. This has a sound structure, but there's nothing brutal about it. Sweet and very long, with fine tannins.

Very dark. Lots of brick shading at the rim. Thick and deep and rich on the nose. Lots of acidity. Tough. (JR)