Good full red. Tight, pure nose hints at black cherry, licorice and minerals; showing more oak today than the Beze. Cooler and more vibrant today than the Beze, coming across as tighter but less voluminous, with less early sex appeal. Medicinal red and black cherry dominate in the mouth. The fireworks come on the back end, which features complex accents of licorice and pepper; a saline, dusty impression of extract; serious tannic spine; and lovely lingering perfume. Should be long-lived in the context of the vintage.

The 2004 Chambertin Grand Cru from Rousseau has a rather stemmy, slightly mulchy nose, which is expected from this vintage, irrespective of how noble the vineyard or producer. It is nicely defined, with brown spices developing, though here is it predictably dwarfed by the 1996. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip and hints of kirsch, Bing cherry, tobacco and stewed black tea, though I find the finish a little short and bitter. Drink soon. Tasted at Noizé restaurant in London.

Mid crimson with pale rim. Jewelly rich aromas – very fetching. A little dry and brutal on the palate but certainly very lively and youthful. (JR)