Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, Rousseau's 2014 Chambertin Grand Cru has a fruit-driven bouquet laden with black cherries, crushed strawberry, ink and a touch of bay leaf. As it aerates, the fruit seems to take more of a back seat and the terroir comes through. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very pure and elegant, iron fist/velvety glove and so forth. This is what a grand cru should be. Utterly seductive and captivating, its satin texture might lure you into opening a bottle too soon. Give it a decade to admire Rousseau at full flight. Tasted September 2017.

Bright, dark red. Distinctly cooler on the nose than the Clos de Bèze, displaying classic Chambertin scents of black cherry, dried flowers, earth, game and crushed rock. A youthfully reserved wine with great refinement of texture and inner-mouth perfume to its flavors of raspberry, spices and minerals complicated by wild hints of leather and game. A seamless Chambertin of great nobility but the Clos de Bèze is more impressive today. Finishes with outstanding rising length and grip, the firm tannins in perfect balance with the wine's mid-palate material. Will this surpass the Clos de Bèze in the long run? I hope I'm around to find out.

100% new oak. Very majestic and autumnal on the nose. Very concentrated and all in the future. Not weak at all with much more obvious ripe fruit in the middle than Clos de Beze. Dense and very dry and savoury but the fruit more than stands up to the new oak. Magnificent. Vibrato. (JR)