The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru is very promising, unwinding in the glass with aromas of exotic spices, grilled meats, cherries, cassis, dark chocolate, licorice and loamy soil. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it was the most introverted, tightly wound wine in the cellar on the day of my visit. Broad-shouldered and elegantly muscular, it's bright and precise, concluding with a penetrating finish.

The 2019 Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru is clearly a step up from the Charmes-Chambertin, offering deeper and more intense red fruit, rose petal and undergrowth aromas. There is also a more tangible marine influence at play here. The palate is medium-bodied with very good structure. Elegant and poised toward the finish, which leaves hints of tobacco and truffle on the aftertaste. Superb. Quintessentially Rousseau.

They will replant some of it. Cask sample. Intense and beautifully balanced on the nose. But actually quite light – perhaps this is an illusion? But I would never guess this was Chambertin blind. It seems to dance rather than throw its weight around – though it does build on the end. A floral note. Very subtle! Lots of fine tannin. (JR)