Rousseau's 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru is brilliant, unwinding in the glass with aromas of wild berries, orange rind, plums, exotic spices, Egyptian musk, woodsmoke and rose petals. Full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's deep and tightly wound, with striking intensity and energy. Still very primary, even after a year's élevage, it will require patience, but it's a magical Chambertin in the making.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru is a little oakier on the nose than its peers, though it remains proportionate to the fruit. There's a little more concentration, maybe slightly later-picked, and then I notice a touch of TCA. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, a keen line of acidity, a structure and more austere Chambertin, even though there is plenty of fruit. Just a bit of dryness on the finish. I think the scintilla of TCA just shaves this Chambertin, and an untainted bottle would shine. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Cask sample. Slightly brighter colour than the Clos St-Jacques. Tip-of-the-tongue sweetness. Deft and fleet of foot, weightless. Exciting, exotic and luxurious. (MH)