Aromas of sweet raspberries and cherries mingling with notions of orange zest, incense and spices in a complex bouquet introduce Rousseau's 2022 Chambertin Grand Cru, a full-bodied, deep and layered wine that's concentrated, precise and penetrating. It's one of the least evolved wines in the cellar, but it's very fine-boned for such a warm vintage.

The 2022 Chambertin Grand Cru conveys a sense of grandeur on the nose, leaning slightly more towards red than black fruit, very harmonious and complex, with pressed flower scents filtering through with aeration. It is difficult to drag your nose away from the glass. The medium-bodied palate has very finely sculpted tannins and great depth with a smoothly textured, lightly spiced finish that lingers very long in the mouth. Superb.

Cask sample. Mid ruby. Red cherries, strawberry and raspberry on the nose. Elegant floral notes, too. On the palate, sweet, concentrated red-fruit core over something more dramatic and carefree. Seemingly chaste, but intriguingly intense all the way to the finish. Very fine, overshadowed by the Clos de Bèze, but fine and well bred. (MH)