Deep, bright red. Sappy aromas of crystallized red cherry and espresso. Very fresh and densely packed, with subtle red fruit flavors nicely framed by sweet oak. In fact, this comes across as less oaky than usual for this wine. Lovely silky texture carries through to the very long finish, which features thoroughly buffered tannins. A great showing.

The 1998 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is remarkably youthful in colour (I confess to guess it to be just 4 or 5 years old!) It has quite precocious blue and red fruit on the nose, again, quite unevolved, as if refusing to let go of its primary fruit. The palate is well structured but maybe lacks a bit of grip. Smooth in texture with hints of cassis that tincture the red fruit, this is a thoroughly enjoyable Rousseau albeit one that is missing a bit of breeding. Tasted at Mere restaurant in London with Mr. V.

Gamey, rounder nose than the 1999 in fact though the palate is pretty drying. Rich and round on the end. Second bottle: lots of carbon dioxide. Quite hard work. (JR)