The 2001 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has astonishing intensity on the nose, perhaps more like a 1999, with copious black cherries, black truffle, juniper berries and eucalyptus. It seems incredibly young even when juxtaposed against Méo-Camuzet’s Cros Parantoux from the same vintage. The palate is medium-bodied, quite structured and grippy, backward and rather masculine yet with disarming poise. This Clos-de-Bèze is only just beginning to step into its stride so don’t be afraid to cellar for another three or four years. Tasted at Empire restaurant in Hong Kong.

Deep, saturated red with ruby tones. Blackberry, blueberry, roast coffee and game on the slightly cool nose. Sweet but penetrating and precise, with the impression of coolness carrying through on the palate. A sappy essence of berries. A juicy, structured, firmly tannic wine with lovely flavor definition.

The surprising aspect of this wine relative to the barrel sample is how much oak it is presently displaying, particularly on the nose. While it remains superbly elegant in every respect with its stylish, astonishingly complex pinot fruit, the oak is certainly not invisible though the flavors remain marvelously intense with a sappy, and quite beautifully detailed finish that is moderately yet finely structured. As originally noted, this is more of a medium weight effort underpinned by sophisticated tannins and impressive length. While it will age for years on its balance, after an hour of air, this became almost surprisingly supple and approachable though I will continue to hold my bottles.

Magnum. What a treat! Already with some gentle autumnal notes on the nose but still dense and jewel-bright. I wrote 'round' twice which suggests that tannins are well in retreat but there is no hurry to drink this. Admirable life and personality. (JR)