The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a very well-defined bouquet of red berry fruit laced with undergrowth, rose petals, incense and hints of white pepper; so much vigor here. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, wonderful tension and great length on the finish. This is a class apart, an intellectual and downright delicious Chambertin that will surely gain even more sophistication during its second winter in barrel. Awesome.

The 2018 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru was more extroverted during my visit to the Rousseau cellars this year, exhibiting a rich and complex bouquet of smoked meats, ripe cherries, cassis, woodsmoke, nori, blackberries and dark chocolate, framed by a lavish application of cedary new oak. It's full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a ripe core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, palate-staining finish. The Clos de Bèze is more immediate and dramatic than this year's Chambertin.

Cyrielle Rousseau always shows this after Chambertin. She says it’s because it is ‘more violent in the mouth at this stage’. Barrel sample. A little more obviously oaky on the nose and slightly reductive today, saying: ‘Leave me alone’. Great presence in the mouth, without any flexing of muscles, it is just an intense presence, nothing flashy, all contained and powerful. The tannins no less fine than on their other grands crus, all just a little subdued today. Firm, dry and fresh, the freshness from the tannins as much anything else. (JH)