The 2005 Charmes-Chambertin (from vines averaging around thirty years of age, two thirds of them in Mazoyere-Chambertin) is decidedly lighter in color and palate weight than its premier cru predecessors. Sweet cherry with jam and caramel suggestions dominate a supple palate, with nuances of toasted almond and licorice. This is all about polish, sweet fruit, and laid-back elegance, but is frankly a bit disappointingly straightforward in consideration of its classification, of the quality standard set by most of its stable mates, and certainly given its price. With Eric Rousseau taking over increasingly from his father Charles, bottling may end up being slightly earlier than in the past, but such routine features as triage exclusively in the vineyards (not the press house), the inclusion of whole clusters and stems, precocious malolactic fermentation (although in 2005 and 2006, at least, Rousseau says he didn’t force this), reliance on older barrels, and an eventual light plaque filtration for all wines remain as before. Given the long-running success of these Pinots in subtly yet insistently conveying the distinct personalities of their sites and standing the test of time, some might well ask “why change the recipe?” while others will wonder whether the wines could be made even better. In any event, nature conspired to hand the new generation a vintage of historic dimensions. Importer: Frederic Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Medium red. Musky, rather exotic aromas of red fruits and faded rose. Sweet but a bit medicinal and withdrawn, showing more grip but less sex appeal than the Cazetiers. This is cooler on the back end, even a tad dry. This cuvee comprises two-thirds Mazoyeres and one-third Charmes. Interestingly, Rousseau considers Mazoyeres to be more feminine in style, but points out that three-quarters of the estate's vines in Mazoyeres are relatively young.

(Two thirds of this wine comes from Mazoyères.) This wine was the first in this line-up to be treated to second fill barrels. Great fruit and one does wonder what it would be like with a slightly tighter corset, however delicate the fruit. Rich and jewelly with great freshness too. Real tingle and thrill but relatively light. This positively dances on the palate it’s so bright-fruited. Lots of sweet, gentle fruit – certainly a charmer. Very pretty indeed without being a show-off. Long with the tingle factor. (JR)