The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing very well from bottle, unwinding in the glass with aromas of blackberries and cassis mingled with notions of licorice, warm spices, cedar and hints of peony. Full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with an unusually rich core of fruit but true to the domaine's suave style, it's velvety and seamless, with succulent balancing acids and ripe, powdery tannins. With time, the puppy fat will recede and the wine will take on more classical proportions.

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined, slightly tertiary bouquet with light tobacco notes filtering through the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, quite peppery, fresh with a nicely structured finish. More Mazoyères than Charmes, this coheres beautifully in the glass and develops a seductive velvety texture. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.

Two-thirds Mazoyères. Barrel sample. Scented, red fruited, open. Then as it opens in the glass, it seems to become darker and more minerally, with stony finesse even with all this fruit. Lots of tension on the palate, partly from the freshness and partly from the tannins, which are dry and extremely fine. A caress with a firm hand. Then sweet again on the finish. On the finish this is long but seemingly gentle. (JH)