The 1999 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru offers exquisite delineation on the nose, real transparency here, very pure and yet there is no escaping the intensity contained in this Clos Saint-Jacques. The palate is supremely well-balanced though it is higher in acidity than I would have expected. Killer mineralité , this sashays along with style and boasts wonderful sapidity on the very long and entrancing finish. Stunning. Tasted blind at the Wallace brothers' Xmas dinner.

It's no secret that this is the Rousseau CSJ is the finest example of its appellation and in 1999, it may very well have exceeded even its own lofty accomplishments. The color is remarkably black followed by a blast of intensely sappy pinot fruit, long, rich, powerful and earthy flavors all held together by extraordinary balance. This is just flat out reference standard CSJ. Though it does not often achieve this, in 1999, the CSJ is as good as the Bèze.

Bright ruby-red. Sexy nose combines maraschino cherry, roast coffee, bitter chocolate and lively oak spices not apparent in the foregoing wines. Full, sweet and chewy in the mouth, with a silky, layered texture to buffer the wine sound acidity. Cherry and black raspberry flavors are nicely sweetened by the wine's new oak. Features a long, gripping whiplash of a finish and fine tannins that coat the entire palate.

The dark ruby-colored 1999 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques has exuberant, sweet, blackberry fruit aromas. This medium to full-bodied wine has amplitude to its mouth-coating , black cherry, oak, and cassis liqueur flavors. It is velvety-textured, lively, and boisterous. Drink it over the next 10-11 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.

Simply glorious. Gorgeous, rich, sweet and already at its peak though with quite enough guts to continue to give pleasure. What a treat it was to taste this. Even more so to drink it. (JR)