An equally fresh if perhaps not quite as ripe nose of red fruit and mineral-infused aromas of surpassing complexity introduce delicious, intense and slightly firmer medium full flavors that culminate in a subtly persistent finish. This is refined and exceptionally pure and while it is on the lighter side, the focus, detail and precision is extremely impressive. Like the Ruchottes, this trades on elegance and refinement yet there is no lack of flavor authority despite the absence of raw size and weight.

It has been some years since I last tasted the 2004 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques from Armand Rousseau. Tasted blind, I instantly nailed the vintage because of that unmistakable stemmy note on the nose - green bell pepper. Underneath that is a light floral scent with bay leaf and broom. The palate is brittle in texture with chalky tannin, hints of licorice surfacing toward the linear, conservative finish that to be honest, was completely out-performed by the 1993 Clos Saint Jacques on this occasion. It's not at all bad for 2004, but there are better vintages out there.

Deep full red. Sexy aromas of red fruits, minerals, flowers and smoky oak (80% new). Sweet, pliant and pure, though not yet showing the complexity of the best vintages. Oaky but not overly so.

Not especially deep ruby. Complex nose with some jewel-fruit excitement. Sweet, spicy and with no awkward corners. Thoroughly well knitted and balanced, but with quite prominent acidity still. Rather a racy wine but it should have quite an exciting life ahead of it. Lots of electricity! (JR)