A heady, exotic Burgundy, the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is remarkably vivid for such a big wine, with freakish levels of concentration that are beautifully balanced by insistent veins of underlying minerality. Layers of pure Pinot fruit build through the mid-palate and finish as this voluptuous, racy wine shows off its fabulous pedigree. It simpy doesn't get too much better than this.

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has an intriguing bouquet, a little timid compared to Mugneret-Gibourg’s imperious Ruchottes-Chambertin alongside, yet it discretely gains intensity and complexity throughout the course of three hours, developing gorgeous scents of blackberry pastilles, cranberry, wild heather and a subtle ferrous scent. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, a little gruff at first but developing more fruit concentration with time, becoming increasingly sensual towards the saline finish. Maybe this is just closing down for a period, so keep bottles tucked away for three or four years. Tasted blind at 67 Pall Mall in London.

(70% new oak): Bright medium red. Red cherry, rose petal and lots of spicy oak on the scented nose. Silky, sappy and vibrant, showing an urgent, sweet crushed red fruit character complicated by flowers and spices. Displays an almost candied character but remains magically fresh, savory and light on its feet. The wonderfully horizontal, utterly suave finish leaves the mouth vibrating. Eric Rousseau told me that he and Sylvie Esmonin were the last of the five owners of Clos-Saint-Jacques to harvest in 2012.