The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru has more fruit intensity than Jean-Marie Fourrier's (implying just a slightly later picking, perhaps), offering copious black plum, raspberry, sous-bois and subtle tobacco scents that are beautifully defined. The palate totally delivers: harmonious, succinct, beautifully structured, with perfect acidity that imparts a disarming sense of symmetry, and brilliantly articulated terroir expression on the sustained finish. Bon vin, très bon vin . Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Bright medium red. Captivating high-pitched perfume of raspberry, cranberry and flowers; Then juicy, penetrating and youthfully tight on the palate; plenty ripe and dense, not to mention utterly seamless, but shows rare energy for the vintage, with the tart red berry and crushed-stone qualities of the vineyard lifted by an ineffable floral quality. The slowly building finish displays superb echoing length. A brilliant 2015, this may be a more classic version of this vineyard than the estate's '16.

Tasted blind, the 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques was showing very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with a lavish bouquet of red-black fruit, petroleum jelly, candied peel and a framing of cedary new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and velvety, with considerable concentration at the core and a firmer, more structured profile than it showed in February, suggesting that it is shutting down. The finish is long and succulent, displaying excellent ripe acids.

70% new oak. Subtle and savoury. Spreads broadly across the palate. All rather majestic without a notable excess of any one characteristic, All spreads out in the end. Dried cherries. But overall not sweet. Very slightly dry on the end but extremely vibrant. Very very neat and clean. (JR)