The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a perfumed bouquet with red cherries, strawberry, orange blossom and hints of chai tea that develop with aeration. There is fine cohesion and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry, lightly spiced and quite peppery for a Lavaux Saint-Jacques, building gradually in the mouth with quite a vibrant spicy, even a touch of curry leaf on the aftertaste.

Having underrated Rousseau's 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques from barrel, then from bottle, I'm happy to have a chance to redeem myself, as this wine is showing brilliantly after just a few years in bottle. Bursting with aromas of red berries, cherries, peonies and spices, framed by sapid bass notes of smoked meats, it's medium to full-bodied, with more mid-palate depth and intensity than was apparent just a year ago, built around melting tannins and succulent acids.

Gorgeously scented with red cherry – immediate, smile-inducing pleasure, before you have even tasted it. There’s a dustiness too but in a good way. More serious, savoury and spiced on the palate, darker than I expected and yet with so much energy. Finest texture. Spiced and incredibly long. (JH)