The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has disarming purity and transparency on the nose, where pressed rose filters through the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine acidity. Fleshy and quite corpulent compared to other vintages, with a long spicy aftertaste. Excellent.

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques offers up an attractive bouquet of red berries, cassis and plums mingled with nuances of candied peel, raw cocoa and grilled squab. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and velvety, with a ripe core of fruit, melting tannins and succulent acids.

Barrel sample. Intense and explosive cherry fruit – exuberant. Sweet and sour cherry. Incredible fruit – so fresh and so intense. Cyrielle Rousseau suggests the winemaker is always afraid the fruit will cover the terroir but I don’t think anyone could object to the fruit here ­– fruit purity on the palate, tender tannins that perfectly matches the fruit. Concentration without fat or heaviness. Firm chalky finish, persistent. (JH)