Armand Rousseau's 2015 Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru is a comparatively elegant, open-knit rendition of this often rather brooding, primal grand cru, wafting from the glass with notes of wild red and black fruits, candied peel, mint and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and quite multidimensional, with notably greater seriousness and depth than the Charmes-Chambertin which preceded it. The finish is sapid and persistent.

Bright, dark, classic Pinot red. From a new barrel: Darker in its fruit character than the Charmes-Chambertin but with a sweet, almost candied quality to the aromas and flavors of black cherry, cola and licorice. Very fine-grained and sweet. From a once-used barrel: Black cherry and licorice flavors show less easy sweetness but more clarity and detail. Finishes juicy and longer, with more minerality and energy. The ultimate blend will be 20% new oak and should be a beauty.