Distinctly chalky, ferrous notes announce the 2013 Clos de la Roche, a wine marked by its intense, saline-infused energy. A wine of notable complexity and pedigree, the 2013 offers striking nuance from start to finish. White pepper, chalk and citrus lend additional lift to the energetic, taut finish. There is a lot to look forward to here.

(no new oak): Bright medium red. Musky, reduced nose offers blackberry, licorice, minerals and smoky underbrush, lifted by a violet topnote that carries onto the palate. Juicy, sappy and intense, with its dark fruit flavors complicated by soil-driven salinity. At once fat and sharply delineated, this taut grand cru finishes salty and long.

The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru was impressive from barrel, but in bottle I found it coming up a bit short. Firstly, it is extremely reduced on the nose and after two or three hours there is little change. It is dense and muscular, very concentrated in style (perhaps atypically for this cuvée from Rousseau) and yet the finish feels a bit chunky and lacks finesse. Yes, it is too young, but here it is easily surpassed by Cathiard's Malconsorts. Tasted at 21 Boulevard restaurant in Beaune.