The 2021 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is fragrant, delineated and coiled up at first, although it only takes a few swirls of the glass before it awakens. Crushed stone infuses the red fruit, and hints of oyster shells emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied and very cohesive, with finely-chiselled tannins and just a little confit red fruit that enlivens the finish, which demonstrates more persistence than the Mazy-Chambertin. Delightful.

Unwinding in the glass with aromas of plums, orange zest, vine smoke and loamy soil, Rousseau's 2021 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and vibrant, with powdery tannins, bright acids and a long, mineral finish.

From two distinct parcels: one on the Gevrey side, one right on the edge of the Route des Grands Crus. Cask sample. Mid-deep cherry. This is a totally different beast; very clear-cut, delineated and quite masculine. Blacker, darker fruit add shadow to this structured, quite monolithic wine. It does have perfume, and shows great clarity and definition. Closing down firmly on the finish this will take time to open and reveal its charms. (MH)