A deep sweetness of dark cherry fruit and of marrow-like as well as roasted game meatiness sets the Rousseau 2006 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes apart from the wines that preceded it in his collection, and while there is a stony undertone here, the sense of sweetness and rich meatiness dominates through the sustained, savory finish. The refinement, invigoration, and minerality that distinguish the Clos de la Roche are here replaced by a more robustly-structured, overtly ripe, but by no means coarsely tannic personality. I suspect that more mineral dimensions will emerge after a few years in bottle, and this should be fascinating to follow for at least 6-8. Since Eric Rousseau – as mentioned in my issue 170 run-down of his methodology – does not on principle utilize a sorting table, I imagined the aftermath of hail in 2006 presenting a special challenge to his pickers and to bottled quality, but it was one he and his team clearly surmounted. Clos de Beze, Griotte-, and Chapelle-Chambertin were the worst-effected, relates Rousseau, along with numerous of his village-level parcels. Potential alcohol levels are closer to 2003's record highs than they are to those of 2005, but the finished 2006s – while hardly as successful as their immediate predecessors – do not suffer any spirituous roughness or heat, and are thus free to effectively make their relatively light, bright, and in the best instances distinctive statements. Rousseau reports – and my limited opportunities for comparison confirm – that the initially rather austere and even brittle, disjointed personalities of these wines were ameliorated in the course of elevage, and the best of them have blossomed beautifully. (I was unable to taste several top wines here after bottling, so my notes on those are based on a representative sampling and blending from cask shortly before bottling.) Importer: Frederic Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Fresh, perfumed, charming, sweet in a delicately floral way. Enchanting. Remarkable in depth and concentration with no edges, no dryness, but beautifully structured. Just a note of savoury spice on the finish. Complex, multilayered. Very fine. (JR)