The 2008 Ruchottes-Chambertin is totally fabulous. The wine literally explodes from the glass with layers of berries, flowers and spices. The Ruchottes shows marvelous inner sweetness and considerable vibrancy. This is a head spinning wine from Rousseau. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. I tasted the following wines with Frederic Robert, who works alongside Eric Rousseau. In 2009 Rousseau and his team began picking on September 7, the earliest in Gevrey. For the first time the estate used 20% whole clusters on all the wines except for Clos de la Roche, which was closer to 15%. The 2009s were scheduled to be bottled in April 2011. I also tasted a handful of 2008s that were deeply impressive. Importer: Frederic Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Medium red. Slightly high-toned aromas of raspberry, flowers, spices and menthol. Then silky-sweet in the mouth, with spicy red berry flavors complicated by a savory, saline soil note. As bright as this suave wine is, it offers sneaky fullness weight weight. A very firm acid spine gives sharp definition to the strawberry and raspberry flavors on the back half. Finishes vibrant, perfumed and long. This youthfully tight wine should reward five years of patience.