The 2014 Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru takes time to unfurl in the glass, eventually opening out with dark berry fruit, a touch of briary and blueberry, and a suggestion of sea spray. It is paradoxically intense but subtle. The palate is medium-bodied and here, it just shows the wood a little more than say, the Clos de la Roche. There is good density here, but it is the acidity that drives this forward and imparts so much tension. This is a Ruchottes that rivets you to the spot.

(20% new oak): Dark red. Alluring scents of black raspberry, violet, spices and licorice. Juicy and penetrating, with perfectly integrated acidity framing and extending the flavors of boysenberry, coffee and bitter chocolate. This bracing wine finishes with substantial dusty tannins and noteworthy grip and class.