Tasted from bottle, the 2015 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru is one of the highlights of the 2015 vintage at Domaine Armand Rousseau, bursting from the glass with a stunning bouquet of raspberry, peony, orange peel, cocoa and wood smoke. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, pure and elegant, with a taut chassis of fine tannins, excellent concentration and a lovely line of acidity that lends this Ruchottes-Chambertin superb precision on the finish. I'd argue that it surpasses the domaine's Clos Saint-Jacques this year.

(20% new oak): Saturated bright, dark red. A bit tighter on the nose than the Clos de la Roche, conveying a slightly medicinal cast to its aromas of boysenberry, black cherry and leather. Then sweet and surprisingly pliant on the palate if not quite as thick as the Clos de la Roche, offering more inner-mouth lift to the flavors of griotte cherry and dark berries. Still, this silky wine will require more time to show its full personality. The very long, slowly mounting finish is vibrant and pure. Eric Rousseau told me he found this wine a bit heavy at the outset, but not today.

25% new oak. Very seductive and savoury with a hint of well-seasoned leather. Bright, slightly bitter, cherry fruit. Racy and lively. Scrubbed seasoned tannins. But crunchy on the end. Very energetic. Like a health food. (JR)