The 2016 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru, which Cyrille described as her “heart wine,” has a superb bouquet with ebullient dark cherries, bergamot, blackberry and briary, wonderful delineation and demonstrating more exuberance than Mugneret-Gibourg (which as affected by frost, whereas Rousseau was not). The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, shimmering red fruit, outstanding mineralité and a subtle crescendo toward the pixilated finish. Is this the finest Ruchottes-Chambertin in 2016? Without a shadow of a doubt.

In recent years, the Clos des Ruchottes has been giving the Clos St-Jacques a run for its money, and while that isn’t the case in 2016, it’s still a lovely wine. Aromas of peony, wild berries and a touch of dried mushroom precede a full-bodied, complete wine with a juicy core of sweet fruit. It has tense, stony tannins, and a lovely purity and elegance.

Around 30% new oak. Some vines have now been replanted. Heady, jewelly nose with a dramatic concentration of ripe fruit. Really rather sumptuous. Lots of richness that almost covers the structure. So long and rich. (JR)