Full medium red. A bit more medicinal on the nose than the Lavaux, without quite as much lift. Then creamy but classically dry in the middle, with its strawberry and raspberry fruit flavors a bit shortened on the back end by rather strong tannins for a young Rousseau wine. Fuller-bodied than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques but a bit musclebound today.

Tasted blind, the 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers was showing quite well, though I suspect it's beginning to shut down. Offering up aromas of orange rind, peony, red cherries, raw cocoa and forest floor, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and ample, with an expansive attack and a creamy, textural mid-palate, concluding with an oak-inflected finish. The Cazetiers is often one of my favorite bottlings chez Rousseau, but this rendition seemed more overtly woody than it usually is. But I suspect its evolution in bottle will make this score look conservative.

50-year-old vines – their oldest. Plus some younger ones but after 2015 they pulled out quite a lot: a fifth of 0.5 ha. It's a lot but Cyrielle is convinced you have to. Menthol note and great richness and breadth. Very flattering with real sweetness underneath. Great freshness. Just cuts off very slightly suddenly. (JR)