The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru is already showing a little maturity on the rim, possibly due to assiduous stem addition. The nose is open-knit and soft with brambly red fruit, perhaps needing a bit more delineation. The palate is sweet and candied on the entry and quite fleshy in style, with moderate acidity and a dash of white pepper. Plenty of extraction here. This just needs to develop a tad more tension and terroir expression on the finish. Otherwise it displays immense breeding. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

One of the highlights of this year's portfolio chez Rousseau, the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers wafts from the glass with a lovely bouquet of red cherries, berries and grilled meat that's complemented by top notes of peony, blood orange and cedary oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered with a deep core, beautifully refined tannins and a long, precise finish. Based on this barrel sample, this Cazetiers will surpass the domaine's Lavaux Saint-Jacques and several of its grands crus in depth, completeness and delineation.

The average vine age is 40 years, now that they have replanted some. So pretty on the nose. Spicy and quietly floral. Peony? Superbly fine tannins, tangy and precise and pure. Utterly moreish but so elegant you cannot rush it. There’s power and persistence on the finish. ‘Lots of character’, thinks Cyrielle Rousseau. (JH)