The 2021 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet that gradually unveils Granny Smith apples, sea cave and faint tertiary scents, very pure and delineated. The palate is beautifully balanced. The neatly integrated used Chassin oak imparts a delectable subtle creaminess towards the finish, distinguishing it from Billaud's Premier Crus. Stunning Chablis ahoy!

Gourmand and expressive, the 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros bursts with aromas of sweet citrus oil, honeycomb, white flowers and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's nicely concentrated, its chalky structure cloaked in fleshy fruit. This is a strong effort in this more variable vintage.

All in demi-muids. Cask sample. Such pure citrus, but the stony/mineral overlay is clear to see. Deliciously bone dry and much tension – more than I expect from Bougros. Tight, mouth-watering, salty and so long. Searing, pure tension. (JH)