One of the highlights in this range, the 2017 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru captures all of the energy and tension that makes wines from this site so distinctive. White flowers, mint, crushed rocks, slate and citrus all pulse through the 2017. The style is all about classical austerity, translucence and crystalline purity.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is also performing well, though it doesn't attain quite the heights I thought it might a year ago. A youthfully reserved bouquet of white flowers, citrus oil and honeycomb precedes a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping palate that's nicely concentrated, concluding with a chalky finish but without the electric energy one looks for in a top vintage.

The 2017 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre comes from two parcels of around 40 years old, matured in 20% used wood. It has a more expressive bouquet than the Mont de Milieu, richer and slightly honeyed with scents of chalk and linden emerging with time. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity, linear and taut and perhaps just needing a little more depth to develop on the finish. Otherwise this is very fine, if just missing the panache of Billaud's other Premier Crus.

Very, very pale gold. Extreme citrus purity – and smells so much more youthful than might be expected from a 2017. Just starting to turn nutty and toasty, sweeter than the cedary evolution of Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes. Rich, crisp with a long salty-citrus finish. (JH)