The 2021 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru retains its serious and backward nose, very saline and still with that faint tang of kelp/Japanese nori. The palate is beautifully balanced with a keen thread of acidity, notes of orange rind and a more malic finish than I recall, yet with the same wondrous elegance and poise. This will age wonderfully in bottle and require time for the aromatics to awaken.

Aromas of citrus zest, oyster shell, clear honey, white flowers and green apple introduce the 2021 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive wine built around tangy acids and chalky dry extract. This taut, structured wine will delight Chablis purists.

This is showing beautifully now. Some citrus tension and an undertow of creamy not-too-sweet pineapple. A contrast between the rounded, ripe flavours and the high-wire acidity. Flesh on firm bones. (JH)