The 2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a vivacious bouquet that's more complex than the Montmains. It's delineated and focused with wonderful mineralité , scents of lime flower, citrus peel and orange blossom. The palate is very well balanced with a quicksilver line of acidity, fine depth and a harmonious, saline finish. The 2023 is beautiful.

The 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is sourced from the Chapelot and Montée de Tonnerre lieux-dits, planted in 1976 and 1971, respectively. Aged 80% in tank and 20% in used 500-liter barrels for 18 months, it soars from the glass with a rich bouquet of apricot, beeswax, pear and grapefruit zest. Full-bodied, textural and enveloping, it’s underpinned by tangy acidity and concludes with a long, chalky finish. Time will reveal its full potential.

20% vinified in 456-litre barrels. Smells more intense than the Mont de Milieu. Creamier, too. Freshness grips your mouth and takes the wine to a long finish. Salty and mouth-watering. So dry and absolutely classic Chablis Premier Cru if a little more fragrant than in more austere vintages. (JH)