Cropped at a meager 15 hectoliters per hectare, the 2021 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu delivers aromas of sweet citrus oil, white flowers and oyster shells, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless palate with good concentration and an electric spine of acidity.

The 2021 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru was bottled the previous May. It is still obdurate and backward on the nose with touches of yellow fruit and a hint of white peach. The palate is taut and fresh, very saline, but perhaps it doesn't quite deliver the knockout finish I expected from barrel, hence my slightly lower score. Still a serious Chablis, though.

Cask sample. Deliciously scented with citrus and lime leaf ( tilleul ). That delicate scent on the palate combined with a firm citrus drive. Deep-fruited, gently chewy texture – a substantial wine perfectly balanced by immense freshness. Very long. (JH)