The 2017 Chablis Vaillons Vieilles Vignes comes from vines just next to Séchet, around 70-years in age. It only sees stainless steel. It has a tightly wound bouquet with mainly Mirabelle and light chalky scents. I appreciate both the tension and focus here. The palate is well balanced with a crisp line of acidity: red apple, pear and a touch of kumquat, leading to a saline finish that feels pure and persistent. Very fine indeed.

The 2017 Chablis Vaillons Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru is another super-appealing wine in this lineup. Floral overtones work so well to play off the natural richness these old vines confer. White flowers, mint and tropical fruit infuse the 2017 with notable complexity and layers of flavor. In the 2017, the Vaillons Vieilles Vignes is a Chablis of pure and total sensuality.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons Vieilles Vignes derives from Le Vaillon itself, and this is a serious rendition, unfurling with aromas of fresh peach, white flowers, yellow orchard fruit, orange rind and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with an ample core of crisp, fragrant fruit and a saline finish.