The 2012 Charmes-Chambertin represents a major step up from the rest of the wines in the range. Totally spherical and seamless on the palate, the 2012 captures the richness of the year, with impeccable polish and depth. A decidedly explosive Charmes, the 2012 isn't especially subtle in showing off its pedigree. There is a lot to look forward to here. Sadly production is down 50%.

Good bright, dark red with ruby highlights. Pungent minerals, licorice and a suggestion of porcini on the nose, with a fruit character that's a bit less black than that of the Cazetiers. Then juicy, tight and atypically imploded for this wine in the early going; there's no easy sweetness or candied-fruit character here. Most impressive on the long, subtle finish, which features suaver tannins than the Cazetiers but a serious spine for aging.